| 1750s Traveling Ensemble Dress Diary |
Sometime in the year 2001:
I found a fabulous piece of mystery natural fibery green fabric that has an interesting texture, weave, and look. I
immediately snatched up the rest of the bolt for $1/yard out of some extra ‘allowance’ money, intending to make
something from the Renaissance era from it.
I found a fabulous piece of mystery natural fibery green fabric that has an interesting texture, weave, and look. I
immediately snatched up the rest of the bolt for $1/yard out of some extra ‘allowance’ money, intending to make
something from the Renaissance era from it.
September 2004:
Well, after several years, I’ve finally decided to overcome indecisiveness on what to do with this green fabric. I picked
a 1750s traveling ensemble since my new goal is something from every century and quite frankly I really like those
clothes. I have found a picture of what I want to make here. I am trying to narrow down the time period, as it is cited
as being from 1745-1760. That's a pretty big time frame as far as clothing is concerned. It has lovely lines and I really
like the way the pleats on match up with the seams on the back of the coat. Since the garment actually exists, it is an
excellent extant source although only the back is shown. I do believe I'll leave off the hood and I'll have to scour more
garb from the same time frame to create the front. I will not be attempting the complicated embroidery since the fabric
already has quite a bit of texture on it's own.
Well, after several years, I’ve finally decided to overcome indecisiveness on what to do with this green fabric. I picked
a 1750s traveling ensemble since my new goal is something from every century and quite frankly I really like those
clothes. I have found a picture of what I want to make here. I am trying to narrow down the time period, as it is cited
as being from 1745-1760. That's a pretty big time frame as far as clothing is concerned. It has lovely lines and I really
like the way the pleats on match up with the seams on the back of the coat. Since the garment actually exists, it is an
excellent extant source although only the back is shown. I do believe I'll leave off the hood and I'll have to scour more
garb from the same time frame to create the front. I will not be attempting the complicated embroidery since the fabric
already has quite a bit of texture on it's own.
December 2004:
I have come to the conclusion that all previous work on the skirt has been in vain as I am completely unhappy with the
result. Therefore I have taken the liberty of completely taking the entire thing apart (about ½ hour quality time spent
with my trusty seam ripper) and starting from scratch. After turning the skirt pieces into gores due to the fact of having
160 inches of skirt as opposed to the more 80-120 inches which was normal I sewed them together again, adding a
hidden pocket on the right side which I found was accurate in Colonial era dresses, and would be handy for things like
eighteenth century chapstick. I decided to use cartridge pleating, since the skirt in the picture looks to be 'gathered'
and not pleated from what I can tell. I cut a skirt band, which will lace closed as I prefer my skirts to not fall off me.
The cartridge pleating took much less time than I thought, even though I had to take it all out and re-do it once I found
out that I put too much space between each pleat. Of course that could be because my watch broke today... but that's
another story.
I have come to the conclusion that all previous work on the skirt has been in vain as I am completely unhappy with the
result. Therefore I have taken the liberty of completely taking the entire thing apart (about ½ hour quality time spent
with my trusty seam ripper) and starting from scratch. After turning the skirt pieces into gores due to the fact of having
160 inches of skirt as opposed to the more 80-120 inches which was normal I sewed them together again, adding a
hidden pocket on the right side which I found was accurate in Colonial era dresses, and would be handy for things like
eighteenth century chapstick. I decided to use cartridge pleating, since the skirt in the picture looks to be 'gathered'
and not pleated from what I can tell. I cut a skirt band, which will lace closed as I prefer my skirts to not fall off me.
The cartridge pleating took much less time than I thought, even though I had to take it all out and re-do it once I found
out that I put too much space between each pleat. Of course that could be because my watch broke today... but that's
another story.
| Cartridge pleating from the outside |
1/23/05:
After the sewing machine went kaput today, I needed something to keep me busy, so I set about trying to get my
mom’s serger to work properly since this fabric freys like nothing I've ever seen. I am thrilled to announce that we
have resolved our differences, and so I spent a grand total of a minute or so serging around the entire bottom of the
skirt fabric so that it will no longer fray due to the unique weave of the fabric. Now that it works properly, I find
serging a very enjoyable experience! All that’s left is to hem the skirt properly, which embarrassingly enough, will be
my first truly proper skirt hem.
After the sewing machine went kaput today, I needed something to keep me busy, so I set about trying to get my
mom’s serger to work properly since this fabric freys like nothing I've ever seen. I am thrilled to announce that we
have resolved our differences, and so I spent a grand total of a minute or so serging around the entire bottom of the
skirt fabric so that it will no longer fray due to the unique weave of the fabric. Now that it works properly, I find
serging a very enjoyable experience! All that’s left is to hem the skirt properly, which embarrassingly enough, will be
my first truly proper skirt hem.
| Ditto from the inside |
2/6/05:
The skirt is hemmed - all 160" worth - and is now complete. Pictures coming soon.
The skirt is hemmed - all 160" worth - and is now complete. Pictures coming soon.
2/10/05:
I have found another picture of a travelling petticoat here. I believe it is of a bit later style than my
inspiration piece, however there are too many similarities (same grape quilting patterns, same skirting on
the 'coat,' same type of pleating around waist, etc) to disregard it as another source. Although the sleeves
are quite different and the coat skirt is a bit shorter, I believe this will give a better idea of what to do for
the front of the outfit. Unfortunately the only information provided is the picture itself - no dates, and no
location for where it is.
I have found another picture of a travelling petticoat here. I believe it is of a bit later style than my
inspiration piece, however there are too many similarities (same grape quilting patterns, same skirting on
the 'coat,' same type of pleating around waist, etc) to disregard it as another source. Although the sleeves
are quite different and the coat skirt is a bit shorter, I believe this will give a better idea of what to do for
the front of the outfit. Unfortunately the only information provided is the picture itself - no dates, and no
location for where it is.
2/12/05:
Well, here is the skirt in all it's glory. Keep in mind there are no petticoats, etc under it so it looks rather
flat at the moment. I've made a muslin mock-up of the coat bodice using a pattern I made from scratch
for another outfit a long time ago. By moving several of the seams, bending a few curves, and turning 5
peices into 4, I think I've come up with something that is really close (amazingly enough) to what I'm
producing. However, after a few hours working with the mock-up, I've grown exceptionally tired of
pinning and trying the thing on (I really need a better dress form) to make sure it's right, so the final fitting
will probably have to be put off until next weekend. I'm really close to my final pattern though, which is
rather exciting as I figured that would be the hardest part of the whole project.
Well, here is the skirt in all it's glory. Keep in mind there are no petticoats, etc under it so it looks rather
flat at the moment. I've made a muslin mock-up of the coat bodice using a pattern I made from scratch
for another outfit a long time ago. By moving several of the seams, bending a few curves, and turning 5
peices into 4, I think I've come up with something that is really close (amazingly enough) to what I'm
producing. However, after a few hours working with the mock-up, I've grown exceptionally tired of
pinning and trying the thing on (I really need a better dress form) to make sure it's right, so the final fitting
will probably have to be put off until next weekend. I'm really close to my final pattern though, which is
rather exciting as I figured that would be the hardest part of the whole project.
2/16/05:
Big update! I found another project I would like to work on, and since I make myself finish one project
before beginning another, I decided to apply myself and get this finished. The result was the final fitting
of the muslin mock-up of the bodice. I took that apart and used it as a pattern to cut the fabric and
lining. I sewed the muslin (used it as interlining) and lining pieces together and used a method from
someone who runs my absolute favorite costume site found here to lace the front closed by using bias
tape and ribbon. (Seriously people, that site is incredible!) The outside was also sewn together and
then attached to the lining. Then, I cut sleeves using an old pattern, adjusting them to my arm size and
the length I needed them to be. The fabric and lining sleeves were attached separately to provide a very
clean look to the inside of the bodice. Then, I played around with a circle of scrap fabric to find the
shape for the sleeve ruffles. It turned out that the shape I liked best was a large circle with an off center
smaller circle. I rummaged through the scrap pile (it's a mess at the moment - been through a lot the past
few days) and found a lace curtain valence that I had made from an old table cloth. After cutting out the
acorn design along the edge, I had something that I ended up really liking for the sleeve lace. Looks
quite pretty if I do say so, myself. I gathered the lace onto the the circles and then serged them onto the
sleeves, because frankly, this fabric really enjoys fraying even if you just look at it. I also sewed with the
regular machine right above that just to be safe. Now for what I am officially dubbing 'Creative pleating
101.' All that's left is the smaller skirt on the bodice and it has to be gored in a way that will hide the
seams inside the pleats. Should be interesting as I only have 60" of fabric left... I'll be taking pics to
post this afternoon (hopefully).
Big update! I found another project I would like to work on, and since I make myself finish one project
before beginning another, I decided to apply myself and get this finished. The result was the final fitting
of the muslin mock-up of the bodice. I took that apart and used it as a pattern to cut the fabric and
lining. I sewed the muslin (used it as interlining) and lining pieces together and used a method from
someone who runs my absolute favorite costume site found here to lace the front closed by using bias
tape and ribbon. (Seriously people, that site is incredible!) The outside was also sewn together and
then attached to the lining. Then, I cut sleeves using an old pattern, adjusting them to my arm size and
the length I needed them to be. The fabric and lining sleeves were attached separately to provide a very
clean look to the inside of the bodice. Then, I played around with a circle of scrap fabric to find the
shape for the sleeve ruffles. It turned out that the shape I liked best was a large circle with an off center
smaller circle. I rummaged through the scrap pile (it's a mess at the moment - been through a lot the past
few days) and found a lace curtain valence that I had made from an old table cloth. After cutting out the
acorn design along the edge, I had something that I ended up really liking for the sleeve lace. Looks
quite pretty if I do say so, myself. I gathered the lace onto the the circles and then serged them onto the
sleeves, because frankly, this fabric really enjoys fraying even if you just look at it. I also sewed with the
regular machine right above that just to be safe. Now for what I am officially dubbing 'Creative pleating
101.' All that's left is the smaller skirt on the bodice and it has to be gored in a way that will hide the
seams inside the pleats. Should be interesting as I only have 60" of fabric left... I'll be taking pics to
post this afternoon (hopefully).
2/17/05:
I figured out the pleating, only to discover that I had a bit of trouble creating the gore-shaped pleats in
my target garment. However, last night I dreamt about a way to do it correctly, so now I've got to take
the coat skirt back off and re-work it before putting it back on. I thought I'd post a few pics anyway to
show how not to pleat. I will try my best to post instructions on pleating gore-shaped pleats, but not
until I know if my dream method works.
I figured out the pleating, only to discover that I had a bit of trouble creating the gore-shaped pleats in
my target garment. However, last night I dreamt about a way to do it correctly, so now I've got to take
the coat skirt back off and re-work it before putting it back on. I thought I'd post a few pics anyway to
show how not to pleat. I will try my best to post instructions on pleating gore-shaped pleats, but not
until I know if my dream method works.
| A nice side view, including sleeve |
| Acorn motif on sleeve lace |
| Ironing boards don't make a very good farthingale... |
| The incorrect rectangular pleats |
2/26/05:
Lot's more accomplished! I have successfully produced the necessary 'gore-shaped' pleats and will post instructions as soon as I get them written down. The
ensemble is almost finished now since I've made a shift, a lace scarf to tuck into the neckline, and drawers (I insist on having something underneath it all, and yes,
they're accurate - if you need to ask what I mean about that, then you need to do more research). I just need to finish the binding around the pair of stays based
on this pair and make a petticoat. Final pics coming soon (I need more camera batteries...)!
Lot's more accomplished! I have successfully produced the necessary 'gore-shaped' pleats and will post instructions as soon as I get them written down. The
ensemble is almost finished now since I've made a shift, a lace scarf to tuck into the neckline, and drawers (I insist on having something underneath it all, and yes,
they're accurate - if you need to ask what I mean about that, then you need to do more research). I just need to finish the binding around the pair of stays based
on this pair and make a petticoat. Final pics coming soon (I need more camera batteries...)!
| The 'gore pleats' from the inside |
| Pinning the pleats, again... |
| A blurry picture of the lacing inside |
Gore Shaped Pleats:
This may be hard to describe, but the picture up and to the right will hopefully provide enough information. Basically the front parts of each pleat have to sit higher
than the underneath pleats. I ended up playing around with each pleat to get the specific line and drape of the fabric that I wanted. The higher the front pleats are,
the bigger the 'gore' that's created.
This may be hard to describe, but the picture up and to the right will hopefully provide enough information. Basically the front parts of each pleat have to sit higher
than the underneath pleats. I ended up playing around with each pleat to get the specific line and drape of the fabric that I wanted. The higher the front pleats are,
the bigger the 'gore' that's created.
3/2/05:
I made the petticoat today. I just used 4 yards of white fabric cut 30 inches wide with an added 8 yard by 10 inch ruffle along the bottom. I made it this way so
it could be used for a variety of periods. I like things that are capable of multi-tasking. The ruffle is pleated onto the petticoat with rather wide box pleats as I
only had a 2 to 1 fabric ratio. The waist was gathered to a band, ripped out completely, and then pleated using stacked pleats onto the waistband. It laces
closed on the side. All in all a functional garment.
I made the petticoat today. I just used 4 yards of white fabric cut 30 inches wide with an added 8 yard by 10 inch ruffle along the bottom. I made it this way so
it could be used for a variety of periods. I like things that are capable of multi-tasking. The ruffle is pleated onto the petticoat with rather wide box pleats as I
only had a 2 to 1 fabric ratio. The waist was gathered to a band, ripped out completely, and then pleated using stacked pleats onto the waistband. It laces
closed on the side. All in all a functional garment.
3/4/05:
I finally made myself sit down and finish the stays, so everything is officially done! Here are some final pics of the outfit and its layers. :-)
I finally made myself sit down and finish the stays, so everything is officially done! Here are some final pics of the outfit and its layers. :-)
| Front |
| Back |
| Skirt |
| Petticoat |
| Eighteenth Century Stays |
All original content of this site © Tonya, 2005-2008. For more information on the use of anything contained here, please see my Copyright Information page. |
| Fabric Detail: blurry, however you can still see the rather unique weave of the stuff |
