| Elizabethan Effigy Corset |
Vital Stats:
Project began 1/20/05
Project completed 2/9/05
Total cost: $8 ($1 for fabric, $5 for reeds, $2 for binding)
# broken needles: um, . . . let's not go there. I even snapped a hand needle
somehow.
# total hours spent: somewhere around 18-20 (due to embroidered flowers)
here and there
# needle wounds: just a couple of pricks actually
Materials: linen, river reeds, binding, embroidery thread, metal grommets
Project rundown: Overall, it was very easy to put together although any time
I wasn't sure what the original was like, I ended up just doing things in a way I
knew how. Please excuse the silver lacing in the pictures. I still have to
replace the lacing I thought I could use (it's too thick) and the silver was
available from the good 'ol scrap bag.
Project began 1/20/05
Project completed 2/9/05
Total cost: $8 ($1 for fabric, $5 for reeds, $2 for binding)
# broken needles: um, . . . let's not go there. I even snapped a hand needle
somehow.
# total hours spent: somewhere around 18-20 (due to embroidered flowers)
here and there
# needle wounds: just a couple of pricks actually
Materials: linen, river reeds, binding, embroidery thread, metal grommets
Project rundown: Overall, it was very easy to put together although any time
I wasn't sure what the original was like, I ended up just doing things in a way I
knew how. Please excuse the silver lacing in the pictures. I still have to
replace the lacing I thought I could use (it's too thick) and the silver was
available from the good 'ol scrap bag.
Corset Diary Entries:
12/30/04: It begins…
I’ve been viewing Elizabethan effigy corset reproductions by several people and have decided to
jump on the bandwagon and produce a pretty yet (hopefully) comfortable enough undergarment
that will give the proper shape to those costumes I would love to make but can’t yet due to not
having proper underpinnings. Thus, the search begins: browsing and researching every article of
information I can find on the internet so that I can decide what method I will use to make it.
Being my first true corset, I am pretty much counting on the fact that things will go wrong, so I
am more concerned with the final outcome and ease of making than complete historical
accuracy. I will not be hand-sewing the thing – I find I am more than okay with this due to the
fact that the poor little historical seamstresses would have jumped on the opportunity to use a
sewing machine for their work, so I will not take modern technology for granted and be thankful
for the blessing of this machine which so greatly aids the hobbies of many people.
I’ve been viewing Elizabethan effigy corset reproductions by several people and have decided to
jump on the bandwagon and produce a pretty yet (hopefully) comfortable enough undergarment
that will give the proper shape to those costumes I would love to make but can’t yet due to not
having proper underpinnings. Thus, the search begins: browsing and researching every article of
information I can find on the internet so that I can decide what method I will use to make it.
Being my first true corset, I am pretty much counting on the fact that things will go wrong, so I
am more concerned with the final outcome and ease of making than complete historical
accuracy. I will not be hand-sewing the thing – I find I am more than okay with this due to the
fact that the poor little historical seamstresses would have jumped on the opportunity to use a
sewing machine for their work, so I will not take modern technology for granted and be thankful
for the blessing of this machine which so greatly aids the hobbies of many people.
| Here is the lovely pink mock-up laid out for cutting |
1/20/05: It’s not easy being green…
Well, I’ve finally decided to take the plunge after finding a lovely pale green linen (about the color of the site
background, actually), which I think, will do nicely for my fabric. Even though it was rather economic in price, I'm
constructing a mock-up (un-boned, just to see if the angles are all correct and if the pattern needs any obvious
adjustments) out of some pink scrub fabric that my grandma pulled out of a dumpster one time. (funny story,
actually…) The scrub material is a nice weight, and two layers of it will do very nicely for an initial fitting. I constructed
a half-pattern from the instructions found here. The half pattern worked great although I got confused a couple of times
and had to go back and rework it when it became obvious that something was definitely not right. In the end I had a
couple pieces of tissue paper, which looked as though they would form something resembling my target result. So, I
cut out the scrub fabric, leaving 3/8 inch (my favorite seam width) wherever appropriate for seam allowance and then
basted the outsides and linings together. I used the longest basting-type stitch on my machine to sew the seams together
and then proceeded to use all those ugly colored grommets that came with my grommet clamp thing to put several up
and down each side of the front opening for fitting - my as well use them, they've been sitting around for years! After
trying it on, I was able to note that the straps were at the wrong angle, the bottom of the front was too long and would
dig into my legs when I sat down, and I needed a bit more room along the bust line since an inappropriate amount of
strain was being placed on the seams and there was a good-sized gap up front .
Well, I’ve finally decided to take the plunge after finding a lovely pale green linen (about the color of the site
background, actually), which I think, will do nicely for my fabric. Even though it was rather economic in price, I'm
constructing a mock-up (un-boned, just to see if the angles are all correct and if the pattern needs any obvious
adjustments) out of some pink scrub fabric that my grandma pulled out of a dumpster one time. (funny story,
actually…) The scrub material is a nice weight, and two layers of it will do very nicely for an initial fitting. I constructed
a half-pattern from the instructions found here. The half pattern worked great although I got confused a couple of times
and had to go back and rework it when it became obvious that something was definitely not right. In the end I had a
couple pieces of tissue paper, which looked as though they would form something resembling my target result. So, I
cut out the scrub fabric, leaving 3/8 inch (my favorite seam width) wherever appropriate for seam allowance and then
basted the outsides and linings together. I used the longest basting-type stitch on my machine to sew the seams together
and then proceeded to use all those ugly colored grommets that came with my grommet clamp thing to put several up
and down each side of the front opening for fitting - my as well use them, they've been sitting around for years! After
trying it on, I was able to note that the straps were at the wrong angle, the bottom of the front was too long and would
dig into my legs when I sat down, and I needed a bit more room along the bust line since an inappropriate amount of
strain was being placed on the seams and there was a good-sized gap up front .
| New strap angle... |
1/23/05: A moment of silence for our dearly departed…
It is a sad, sad day. The tiniest part on my entire old Singer sewing machine bit the dust, rendering it useless. So, I
proceeded to pull out the ‘Blue Monster’, which is an antiquated vintage blue metal Brother machine that only does
straight stitching – it’s even got the big wheel on the side and the skinny ‘neck’ on the top. The amazing thing is that it
has the prettiest straight stitch of any machine I’ve ever used. I had honestly considered dragging it out (literally – the
thing weighs a ton even though it’s supposed to be a ‘portable’ machine) to do the boning channels on this project. I
pulled out the pink mock-up, pinned the adjustments, ripped out its seams, and then used it as a pattern to cut the
green linen. The rest of the day was spent procuring a new sewing machine – hooray for e-bay!
It is a sad, sad day. The tiniest part on my entire old Singer sewing machine bit the dust, rendering it useless. So, I
proceeded to pull out the ‘Blue Monster’, which is an antiquated vintage blue metal Brother machine that only does
straight stitching – it’s even got the big wheel on the side and the skinny ‘neck’ on the top. The amazing thing is that it
has the prettiest straight stitch of any machine I’ve ever used. I had honestly considered dragging it out (literally – the
thing weighs a ton even though it’s supposed to be a ‘portable’ machine) to do the boning channels on this project. I
pulled out the pink mock-up, pinned the adjustments, ripped out its seams, and then used it as a pattern to cut the
green linen. The rest of the day was spent procuring a new sewing machine – hooray for e-bay!
| Voila! Green linen is cut! |
1/24/05: Sew much to do…
Following the construction methods found here, I sewed side seams for each piece and turned them right side out,
leaving only the top and bottom open. This ensures I’ll have a nice edge for whipstitching the back and front pieces
together just before binding it. I wonder if this method was used to account for weight changes back in those days of
yore - they would be able to just take off the binding and make adjustments before re-binding. I have to confess that I
went ahead and put a seam all the way up and around the strap ends so that I had a nice rounded edge on them - I’m
not perfect at binding and thought I’d give myself as much help in the matter as possible. After turning the pieces right
side out and ironing the seams, I proceeded to sew very close along the outer edge of the seams to hold them in place
on the outside. This will also be the starting point for making the channels.
Following the construction methods found here, I sewed side seams for each piece and turned them right side out,
leaving only the top and bottom open. This ensures I’ll have a nice edge for whipstitching the back and front pieces
together just before binding it. I wonder if this method was used to account for weight changes back in those days of
yore - they would be able to just take off the binding and make adjustments before re-binding. I have to confess that I
went ahead and put a seam all the way up and around the strap ends so that I had a nice rounded edge on them - I’m
not perfect at binding and thought I’d give myself as much help in the matter as possible. After turning the pieces right
side out and ironing the seams, I proceeded to sew very close along the outer edge of the seams to hold them in place
on the outside. This will also be the starting point for making the channels.
| Sewing the channels |
Still 1/24/05: Adventures in Broomstraw…
To be completely honest I had intended to use zip ties as a substitute for the whalebone portion of the corset when I
suddenly had the urge to just check to see if Hobby Lobby had anything more appropriate. Imagine my elation when
I found some 31” long 1.5mm diameter reeds that were also 50% off (hot dog!!), making them even cheaper than zip
ties would have been. There weren’t a lot to choose from so I chose the 4 packs of lighter colored reeds - which
included 3 packs of oranges ones - so they hopefully wouldn't show through my fabric. On the way home, I thought,
“I wonder if the orange dye comes off…” I could just imagine the corset and anything it’s touching turning a vibrant
day-glo orange if it ever got wet from rain, sweat etc. I tested one of the broken pieces and discovered that, yes, it
does come off. So, at this moment, all the little orange reeds are relaxing in a bath of hot water and a smidge of
bleach in my bathtub - I'll keep changing the water out until it runs clear. Now, I can go ahead and sew the channels
After sewing what ended up being 30 channels on the right side, I made 30 somewhat identical ones on the left side. I
also stitched a line one inch from the top of all the sides to provide the spot for the reeds to stop. For the back, I
began by stitching a line straight up the middle – okay, so I stitched it, cringed when I saw exactly how un-straight it
was, ripped it out and re-sewed it. After sewing the rest, I ended up with a grand total of 80 channels. The channels
are all straight – each one widens the slightest bit toward the top so that there are no odd diagonal ones to take up
extra room anywhere. Two of them will be left un-reeded to allow for the lacing holes at the front. Speaking of lacing
holes, I am using grommets that I already had to stabilize the holes and will be hand sewing around each one to
provide the correct historical look. Each side ended up with 20 lacing holes placed for spiral lacing. I’ve read that
the reeds can poke through fabric which isn’t good for the condition of the corset or the skin of the person wearing it,
thus I’ve decided to give myself even more work by rounding off the end of each reed with a file before inserting it.
Slight miscalculation: these reeds are so long that I can cut them in half and use each one twice. Guess I’ll have a lot
of extra left over. Rounding the reeds has proven beneficial in more way than one – they slide into the channels with
ease.
To be completely honest I had intended to use zip ties as a substitute for the whalebone portion of the corset when I
suddenly had the urge to just check to see if Hobby Lobby had anything more appropriate. Imagine my elation when
I found some 31” long 1.5mm diameter reeds that were also 50% off (hot dog!!), making them even cheaper than zip
ties would have been. There weren’t a lot to choose from so I chose the 4 packs of lighter colored reeds - which
included 3 packs of oranges ones - so they hopefully wouldn't show through my fabric. On the way home, I thought,
“I wonder if the orange dye comes off…” I could just imagine the corset and anything it’s touching turning a vibrant
day-glo orange if it ever got wet from rain, sweat etc. I tested one of the broken pieces and discovered that, yes, it
does come off. So, at this moment, all the little orange reeds are relaxing in a bath of hot water and a smidge of
bleach in my bathtub - I'll keep changing the water out until it runs clear. Now, I can go ahead and sew the channels
After sewing what ended up being 30 channels on the right side, I made 30 somewhat identical ones on the left side. I
also stitched a line one inch from the top of all the sides to provide the spot for the reeds to stop. For the back, I
began by stitching a line straight up the middle – okay, so I stitched it, cringed when I saw exactly how un-straight it
was, ripped it out and re-sewed it. After sewing the rest, I ended up with a grand total of 80 channels. The channels
are all straight – each one widens the slightest bit toward the top so that there are no odd diagonal ones to take up
extra room anywhere. Two of them will be left un-reeded to allow for the lacing holes at the front. Speaking of lacing
holes, I am using grommets that I already had to stabilize the holes and will be hand sewing around each one to
provide the correct historical look. Each side ended up with 20 lacing holes placed for spiral lacing. I’ve read that
the reeds can poke through fabric which isn’t good for the condition of the corset or the skin of the person wearing it,
thus I’ve decided to give myself even more work by rounding off the end of each reed with a file before inserting it.
Slight miscalculation: these reeds are so long that I can cut them in half and use each one twice. Guess I’ll have a lot
of extra left over. Rounding the reeds has proven beneficial in more way than one – they slide into the channels with
ease.
| Relaxing in the tub... |
| Putting the Reeds in |
1/25/05: The Necessity of the Fainting Couch
Well, the orange reeds dried overnight and are now in their proper channels. Side note: I have definitely noticed a
shrinking’ effect the reeds have on the overall design. I hope that they’ll stretch into their proper places and leave it
fitting properly. After stitching the back and sides together, I tried the thing on so I can see what adjustments need to
be made. I can’t fill up my full lung capacity by any means, however I am still breathing quite comfortably. Under a
lot of stress, I would probably need a fainting couch, and now it makes complete sense to me how necessary they
used to be. I will definitely not ever wear one of these for a marathon! I also understand why they always had nice
roly-poly nurses (who obviously weren’t as obsessed with the shape of their body) to watch over their kids. Chasing
and picking up after a toddler is basically impossible! I should have waited until her naptime. It does lace completely
closed, and I’m still counting on a little stretching and for the reeds to adjust themselves where they need to be. I
must say that I now have the exact shape of the Tudor period. My all-new body shape is very straight even though it
may not be as cone-shaped as Elizabeth I’s 21 inch waist made her. Only a few very minor adjustments to be made
now before finishing it.
Well, the orange reeds dried overnight and are now in their proper channels. Side note: I have definitely noticed a
shrinking’ effect the reeds have on the overall design. I hope that they’ll stretch into their proper places and leave it
fitting properly. After stitching the back and sides together, I tried the thing on so I can see what adjustments need to
be made. I can’t fill up my full lung capacity by any means, however I am still breathing quite comfortably. Under a
lot of stress, I would probably need a fainting couch, and now it makes complete sense to me how necessary they
used to be. I will definitely not ever wear one of these for a marathon! I also understand why they always had nice
roly-poly nurses (who obviously weren’t as obsessed with the shape of their body) to watch over their kids. Chasing
and picking up after a toddler is basically impossible! I should have waited until her naptime. It does lace completely
closed, and I’m still counting on a little stretching and for the reeds to adjust themselves where they need to be. I
must say that I now have the exact shape of the Tudor period. My all-new body shape is very straight even though it
may not be as cone-shaped as Elizabeth I’s 21 inch waist made her. Only a few very minor adjustments to be made
now before finishing it.
1/29/05: Flower Power!!
I've decided that there is no reason why I shouldn't make this thing pretty, so I've taken to embroidering a tiny
four-petaled flower in between each eyelet. I've made my adjustments and did my final stitching (much prettier in
green) to the seams holding it all together. All that's left is the binding and the eyelets/flowers for the right side.
I've decided that there is no reason why I shouldn't make this thing pretty, so I've taken to embroidering a tiny
four-petaled flower in between each eyelet. I've made my adjustments and did my final stitching (much prettier in
green) to the seams holding it all together. All that's left is the binding and the eyelets/flowers for the right side.
| Detail of eyelets and 'flowers'... |
| How I sewed it together... although it has been redone in green |
2/9/05: On the home stretch, cont.
The binding is done. I honestly didn't want to try my luck with leather (been there, done that, didn't work out how I
wanted), so I ended up using just regular 'ol 1/2 inch double fold binding, however I ironed it flat and then folded it into
thirds, re-ironing it along the way. Thus, there are a grand total of three layers of binding fabric along all the edges. I
figured this would be sufficient to hold in the reeds.
The binding is done. I honestly didn't want to try my luck with leather (been there, done that, didn't work out how I
wanted), so I ended up using just regular 'ol 1/2 inch double fold binding, however I ironed it flat and then folded it into
thirds, re-ironing it along the way. Thus, there are a grand total of three layers of binding fabric along all the edges. I
figured this would be sufficient to hold in the reeds.
| Alternate Views: |
Please excuse my dress form - she isn't too
pretty and is most likely the worst dress form
ever made by a human. However, she doesn't
mind being photographed in undergarments.
Here are side and back views, and one of the
seam just because I had trouble finding a pic
of that when I was planning the project. As a
result, I have no clue if this is accurate or not,
but it's what I came up with.
pretty and is most likely the worst dress form
ever made by a human. However, she doesn't
mind being photographed in undergarments.
Here are side and back views, and one of the
seam just because I had trouble finding a pic
of that when I was planning the project. As a
result, I have no clue if this is accurate or not,
but it's what I came up with.
All original content of this site © Tonya, 2005-2008. For more information on the use of anything contained here, please see my Copyright Information page. |
2/7/05: On the home stretch
Every lacing hole is done, and it's completely put together, leaving only the binding left. Yea! However, I don't like any
of the binding I already have, so I'll have to put finishing it until later when I can get to the good 'ol neighborhood fabric
store. I'm considering 'double-binding' the bottom so the reeds won't be tempted to ever poke through. I'll think about
it.
Every lacing hole is done, and it's completely put together, leaving only the binding left. Yea! However, I don't like any
of the binding I already have, so I'll have to put finishing it until later when I can get to the good 'ol neighborhood fabric
store. I'm considering 'double-binding' the bottom so the reeds won't be tempted to ever poke through. I'll think about
it.
