1520s Queen Mary of Hungary Dress Diary
|
3/5/05:
I have the best friends in the whole world. Just for a little babysitting, they were kind enough to
fund a trip to the good 'ol neighborhood fabric playground. A few days ago, I noticed the
ugliest rough green silk that I had ever seen, and immediately was reminded of the green in
Queen Mary's 'wedding dress,' which can be seen here and here. I have thought about
recreating it for a while, but was a little scared to tackle the intricate smocking on what is
referred to as the 'bodice.' Luckily, one of the previously mentioned friends is an expert
smocker (is that a word?), and has reassured me that the task is well within my meager talents.
I love researching art for inspiration on projects to make, but I am even more fond of using
extant garments as a source, so I am looking forward to this project.
Today, the ugly green silk was still there (I was rather excited about this - I guess everyone else
was so repulsed by the color that they failed to notice it was 100% silk - really though, the
color's not too bad for a historical garment), and I snatched the rest of it - only 6 1/2yards - at
%40 off the sale price. It ended up being only $1.60/yard - I'm a sucker for a good deal. I
there was a good chance I would have just enough, or it would at least make cool peasant garb.
Although it's not damask, with a lovely design, it'll still do for this project quite nicely, thank you
very much. I also bought a brushed rust colored cotton for the cuffs and neckline, and some tan
cotton canvas to use as lining and maybe a hemp corset to go underneath everything. I also
bought plain white cotton for the bodice, which I will lengthen into a chemise.
I told myself that I didn't need to start on this until next week, but a few hours ago I found myself
starting on the skirt. I tried calling up those dormant algebra skills for the round skirt with the
equation (okay, so I had to look the equation up online - math was never my strong point)
C=pi*d (couldn't find the symbol for pi) where C is the circumference and d is the diameter.
However, I found that there's something missing from the calculations provided by the original
descriptions - if the circumference of the original (780cm) is used to find the diameter (248cm),
and the front length (107) and back length (124cm) are subtracted, there's only 17.28 cm left
for the diameter of the hole in the middle which is only a 54.28 circumference for the waist,
which falls short of the actual 73cm waist circumference. Therefore, I had to rely on the highly
scientific method of guessing and on my measurements. Accounting for seam allowances, I
took the front length (110 cm) + the back length (142 cm) + the diameter of the circle for the
waist (this will be big enough to reproduce the gathered pleating effect with my waist
measurements - involved lots of algebra too - 35 cm) to get a total of about a 286 diameter. I
folded the longest piece of silk (there was a remnant on the outside of the bolt - it came in two
pieces so I had to creatively piece the thing together) into quarters to make it the 'middle' piece.
I measured out 143cm in a circular pattern which gave me the 286cm diameter total and a fairly
equal circular edge. I have to admit that I'm happy I won't have a seam down the middle of the
skirt in the front and back, even though I ended up with a weird seam in the middle of the side
pieces due to the remnant I had. I then laid the side pieces next to the middle piece, accounted
for seam allowances, and continued the 143cm quarter circle. I then sewed the pieces together
and now have a very huge very green circle. Please see my rather feeble diagram for my
measurements and how I pieced the thing together. The red lines are seams. I included the
waist hole although I haven't cut it yet.

The fabric colors: green (that somehow doesn't burgandy here), and a bland sort of tan color for the lining
|
The skirt (folded into quarters) and my yardstick... yes, it could use a visit from the iron
|
3/7/05: Chemise Concerns...
If anyone else out there has tried to recreate really old smocking,
please let me know! After reviewing the description of the
smocking for what is called the bodice, I am somewhat confused at
the measurements. My smocking friend and I have figured that
anything more than a 2 to 1 (i.e.- for every 2 inches of smocking
you only need 4 inches of fabric to start with) is too much fabric.
Thus, when going through the information found on this page about
the bodice, and seeing that 122cm of fabric for the sleeves was
supposedly gathered into only 28cm, I've had to make a few
adjustments. The front and back of the bodice were each made
from three 'trapezoids' that were 40cm wide at the top and 60cm
wide at the bottom. Now, is that 40 cm all added together (from
the cutting diagram, this may be the case since the trapezoids are
only very slightly gored) If each trapezoid is 40cm at the top and 60
cm at the bottom, all those 60cm amounts are added up + the two
60cm gores, you get a total of 480 cm circumference for the bottom
of the bodice?!?!? Huh? That's really big, and would be an
enormous amount to try to stuff in the waist of the dress bodice. I
realize that it's very finely pleated, but that just means that even less
fabric is used to make the pleats. So, I'm thinking that the pieces
that made up the front and back were 40cm total across the top and
60cm total across the bottom. I've cut the pieces according to this
assumption, and although I have no clue of exactly how long they're
supposed to be, I have made them a nice mid-calf length to make
this into more of a chemise-type of thing. I did add some extra
along the sides just in case - I can always cut off any extra after
pleating. I cut the sleeves much narrower than the 122cm in the
description. They ended up being 65cm wide by 67cm long.
Again, I can cut off extra after pleating, if I need to. I cut the
gussets into 23cm squares per the description. I won't cut my gores
until I see how the pleating comes out and where I will need to
attach them in regards to the gussets. If I turn out to be wrong on
all this, I'll just have to re-cut everything - yea for learning things the
hard way!
Measurement Diagram for My Skirt
|
3/13/05: Chemise Continued...
Alright, so the original instructions for the chemise are more accurate than I thought, leading to the creation of two more front pieces, and two more back pieces
which were sewn together. I trimmed the seams as close as I could to the seams so they would hopefully fall into the bottom of a pleat, hiding them in the
smocking part. Yes, it's quite a large diameter around, but now that it's all pleated, it's not as bad as I thought it would be. Apparently the fabric ratio for pleats
for smocking is around 4 to 1 depending on how tight you want the pleats. So, at this time, both sleeves, the front, the back, and a piece of fabric to practice
smocking on are all pleated and ready to be smocked, which seems to be a form of art. Not hard, but getting it all even is giving me a bit of trouble since the
fabric pleats have a rather large range of movement and don't want to stay still while I'm smocking. I do have the front design drawn out to scale and just need to
turn it into a smocking plate that will match the number of pleats I have. I'll be smocking the back first - thus any mistakes I make while still having rudimentary
smocking skills will be hidden under the dress bodice. Smart move, huh! :-)
3/15/05: Smocking Plate
Want to see my 'smocking plate?' Click here!
3/21/05: Computer Cold
Well, the computer has a board that's going bad, so there won't be any updates for around a week while that gets fixed. However, you're not missing much since
I'm still smocking the chemise. I've got about 1/4 of the back done, and after that I'll do the cuffs, then the shoulders, and finally the front. Why that order? I'm
going from the least seen smocking to the most seen smocking in an attempt to hone my smocking skills along the way. :-) This way, people will say, "Wow!
What a great job you did on the smocking!" and I'll know the truth of how it really looks...lol! I'll do my best to post some pics of the smocking as soon as I get
the computer back. :-)
The smocking so far... The orange threads serve as both bright colored guide-lines to use for spacing the stitches and as the threads holding the pleats in place, which will be pulled out once I'm done smocking, which may be several decades from now at the rate I'm going . . .
|
4/2/05: Still Smocking...
Well, the smoking is going alright, but I'm not entirely pleased with the way
the pattern is turning out. It's not tall enough, however, the width is fine. And
yes, the number of alternating designs on the original garment is the same
number as I have drawn out. Everything is 90 degree angles, so I figured the
height and width of the pattern would be at least mostly accurate to the
original measurements. Grrrr - it's giving me fits, which is the reason for the
lack of motivation on my part to work my fingers to the bone on this part of
the project. I'm just not happy with it so far. You can also tell by the photo
how much of a tendency the fabric has to move around and not stay still while
I'm stitching. Parts of it look not so good but it's just because the stuff won't
stay flat. So, I will probably end up ripping out everything I've done so far
and will rework the smocking patten a little. However, figuring out how to
make it taller without losing all the 90 degree angles (which would make it
look really skinny) or cutting off the ends of the design (I really want to keep
the same number of designs as the original) is making me want to pull my hair
out.
Therefore, in an effort to quell my frustrations a bit, I am taking a break from
the neckline and will now evenly distribute all the pleats and attach the
neckband and work on the cuffs of the sleeves. Also, this will finish the
chemise (except for the neckline embroidery, of course) so if I get frustrated
again I can drape the bodice or something to that effect.
I haven't found any information whatsoever on the exact pattern that was
used on the cuffs which means - I CAN BE CREATIVE! Well, to an extent
. . . the only phrase I've found to describe the cuffs is toward the end of the
description on the Virtue site which says that the pleats along the cuffs are,
"decorated with narrow silver embroidery in an interlocking half-circle
pattern." Therefore, I have taken the liberty to create this pattern (scroll
down).

4/21/05: And yet more smocking...
I have to apologize for the lack of updates. Due to working on other projects and babysitting, the smocking is
taking a bit longer than planned. However, although it's taking forever, it's coming along nicely and I look forward to
more exciting updates soon. :-)
8/11/05: Summer's over! (finally!)
Summer is always such a busy time for me, and this year was no exception! I am unfortunately still running into
problems with my left hand/wrist, so things are moving quite slowly. However, I hope to start draping the dress
rather soon since technically the drape of the dress doesn't depend on the smocking. :-) I must admit that although I
knew it would be a rather tedious task to smock all that, I never realized how big of a job it would turn out to be!
Stay tuned for more pics! :-)
8/22/05: Progress!!
Well, yesterday I decided to put down everything else for some sewing time for me and no one else. I thought I'd at least make up the patterns, maybe get the first
muslin cut out... but things went so smoothly, I got a lot more than that done! First, using my measurements, I created some patterns on vellum paper to match the
teeny patterns documented on the Virtue site. Guessing is not the most scientific method, but it seemed to work alright since I have an eye for matching angles and
shapes. After cutting out the pattern pieces, I cut the muslin and sewed it together only to find ... it fit *perfectly* the very first time!!!!! I have to admit, I was
rather skeptical of the pattern since it was mostly straight lines with only a few curves. The armhole and top of the sleeve just didn't look right to me as far as patterns
go. However, I figured I would try it their way at least once. There is a wrinkle from the shoulder to underneath the arm, but the very same wrinkle is in the exact
same place on the original, so I'm going to leave it.
So, then I cut my fabric, lining, and trim, leaving enough around the edges for seam allowances. I sewed the shoulder and side seams on the silk and then put in the
sleeves. The same was done for the lining, and it was put inside the silk bodice, seams facing one another so that the overall inside look is nice and neat. After that,
the top sides of the collar were attached together and then the bottom sides were attached. One long seam all around the collar was made and then the collar was
turned right side out and ironed flat. I pinned the top side of the collar along the edge of the lining, matching up all the shoulder seams and sewed the neckline all the
way around. The collar was turned to the right side of the garment and pressed into place. After trying it on, I noticed that the back of the collar tended to stand out
which was odd considering that the bodice back and collar were cut from the same pattern. So, I tacked it down every inch or so and haven't had a problem from it
since. The cuffs and cuff lining pieces all had their side seams sewn and then a lining and outer cuff piece were put inside each other and sewn along the bottom edge.
They were then turned right side out and the bottom seam was ironed flat. All that was left to do on the bodice was to attach the cuffs to the sleeves.
While making the pattern pieces, I figured out that basically 2/5th of the waist measurement was for the back of the bodice, 1/5 for each side of the front, and that left
approximately 1/5 for the front opening. I cut the hole in the middle of the skirt and then cut a hole the same size in a smaller circle of cotton organdy. The two were
stacked on top of each other, and then with right sides together , I sewed just along the cut for the opening in the front of the skirt. The cut should be about 1/4 the
total front length of the skirt. I turned them right side out and basted the rest of the edge of the hole together to make it easier to gather onto the bodice. I left 1/10
of my waist measurement on each side of the opening before pinning the right sides of the skirt and bodice together. (1/10 on each side of the opening makes 1/5
total for the gap between the front sides of the bodice) The skirt is quite flat in the front, so I didn't start gathering it until I had reached the side seams. At that point,
I pinned the middle of the skirt to the middle of the bodice and kept doing that to each gap between my pins until the gaps were small enough I could gather it by
hand as it went through the sewing machine. I trimmed the gathered seam and folded what was left of the bodice seam over and tacked it down to the lining to make
it nice and neat inside. Voila! Dress is mostly done.
What is left? Well, I still need to buy some dark green fabric to make the 1 1/2 cm border around the bottom of the skirt, and the cotton organdy isn't doing a very
good job as a skirt lining, so I really want to completely redo the waist seam with a thicker fabric that will hold the shape better... maybe some felt or something.
Other than that it looks great. No wrinkles anywhere they aren't supposed to be, and the full circle skirt is a lot of fun. It drapes really well! So, pics will be coming
soon ... just as soon as I get that waist redone! Also planned are diagrams of the patterns I made. Just have to get them on the computer.
11/8/05: Really exciting news!!!!
I am very excited to present an all-new gallery of images of the original garment that have so generously been donated for the viewing pleasure of everyone
infatuated with this dress. If you haven't seen them yet, they're great and you can check them out here.
2/15/06: Down to the nitty gritty...
I absolutely refuse to work more than a whole year on a project, so I am working my fingers to the bone. To be fair to myself, I am taking another route with the
smocking part of the chemise due to the recent revelation of the new pictures. Due to finding out the smocking itself is much finer than I originally anticipated, I will
be making another one and reworking the embroidery pattern accordingly. However, the dress itself is looking great, and the more I look at it, the more I want to find a
similar brocade and golden/copper fabric and really make this like it deserves to be made. All that's left is the hem, but I still haven't found appropriate fabric for the small
guard that runs around the edge of the skirt. Then, I just have to post pics! Yay!